the wicklow way: a windy walk to dublin
70 miles in the bag, I departed Lough Dan to tackle the biggest day of the hike. It would be over 20 miles and would bring me up and over the most exposed portion of the trail, Djouce Mountain. As a cute bonus, the weather was looking sketchy.
The Way winded through Roundwood’s country roads. Early in the morning, I turned a corner and was surprised to see a gaggle of sheep. At this point I had seen about 42,000 sheep, but these sheep were on the loose, riproaring around on a paved road. These fluffly punks looked like they were up to no good.
They were in my way, but I was not about to be intimidated by wayward farmstock, so I carried on. Thick cow parsley hedged in the road, and the sheep took off back towards their home. A farmer came running down the road waving his arms around. I tramped along on my merry way, naturally shuttling the sheep down the way and back into their home. One could say… herding the sheep. Am I a shepherd now??
Mist rolled in, creating the perfect conditions for a peaceful hike. The wind picked up as I approached White Hill. I layered up and had my first “oh shit” moment of the hike as I squinted through sideways rain. The trail disappeared into the fog, but it was obvious that it was going to be a long, exposed slog.
I’m a psycho though, so I happily trotted into the gauntlet. The wind was absolutely killer and I was glad to have my trekking poles to keep me upright. Every step was a struggle, so I was relieved when I crested the peak. A ginger Irishman slowly came through the mist, carefully stepping along the trail, trying not to get blown off a cliff.
“Good luck up there!” he said.
Up there?? I thought we already were up there!! Sure weren’t. I had several hours to go above treeline, and while it was a challenge, I loved it.
L I V I N G
The day was far from over as I passed by the far-off Powerscourt Waterfall. A magical romp along a river and a final spicy push up Knockree Hill brought me to a familiar junction. I was back on the road to Enniskerry, where I had bailed on my hike six months before.
you want me to go down this……. and then up that??
mystical glens
rainbow!
pretty flowers
Trekking the last three miles down into the village still hurt my little feet, but this time I was filled with gratitude and pride instead of shame and whisky. I would still journey one more day to Dublin, but I had officially hiked the Wicklow Way in its entirety.
100% a fairy house
some willy wonkaness
I stayed again at Enniskerry Inn, and had another yummy breakfast at Poppies. I managed to catch a bus most of the way back up the paved hill, then retraced my steps back to Dublin. It was a totally different experience from November.
I was excited to revisit Fairy Castle, but was viciously stalked by a bumblebee. Great for increasing your pace, not great for stopping to enjoy the view.
a picture grabbed whilst running from a demonic bee
Knowing Dublin was close, I borderline jogged into the city. Soon I was back in Marlay Park, smelly and looking way overprepared for a walk in the city. And just like that, I was at the northern terminus of the Wicklow Way, having hiked 103 miles to get there.
did it!!
The US was still requiring covid test for reentry, so I spent two nights in Dublin getting that sorted and drying out my stinky gear. I did some booping around the city, especially enjoying some delicious Japanese food after seven days of bread and soup.
^^^ i need this as a tattoo
I met up with Paula, Renate, and Paul at The Ginger Man for a hike recap and celebration dinner. (I’d like to take this time to also commit to being like Paula when I grow up… she’s turning 70 this year and is my spirit animal).
mile 0
mile 103!
Outside the Ginger Man
This was my longest hike to date and one of my favorites. I loved the B&B stays, the misty mornings, the time alone, the many soups, the friendly people, the challenge, and the adventure of it. More! Moreee!!!
where: the wicklow way
when: very windy late may
how: b&bs and luggage transfer through the natural adventure