thoreau falls
One of my favorite areas to hike in NH is the Pemigewasset Wilderness, especially from the Zealand Trailhead. In a land of granite cliffs and zero switchbacks, the Zealand Trail is a rare flat-ish 2.5 mile hike to the Zealand Falls Hut, an oasis of brownies and toilets in Zealand Notch. I became very familiar with this area because it took me not one, not two, but three attempts to bag Mt. Zealand during my NH48 quest. (The first try I hiked with friends and we started too late, the second go Jill and I were thwarted by extreme cold… third time was the charm during my Bonds backpacking trip). Once you get to the hut, it gets very, very, steep up to Zeacliff, but until then, it’s a beautiful walk in the woods.
During my forays in the area I had seen signs for “Thoreau Falls.” I did some interweb research but couldn’t find much; so, on a very warm Sunday in June, I decided to go see for myself what all the not-fuss was about.
From the Zealand parking lot, the trail winds through pine groves next to the Zealand River. A few miles in I crossed a beautiful wetland on some great boardwalks. After about an hour of hiking, I banged a left on Ethan Pond Trail, the artist also known as the AT.
The trail significantly narrowed, and after some PUDS (pointless ups and downs… hiker jargon, getwithit) the trail opened up into a gorgeous view of the Pemi.
Looking back down the notch towards Zealand Hut.
What great bang for the buck! I was several miles in, but they were easy miles, and elsewhere in the Whites you have to WORK for views like this. Already satisfied with my adventure, I carried on to the falls… where it got even better.
Pictures don’t do this place justice. It’s not a huge vertical drop, but instead a long magical series of cascades and pools. It’s REALLY in the wilderness and finding it feels like a giddy secret. I stayed there for half an hour, but the real move would have been to bring a hammock and a picnic for the whole afternoon.
After soaking it up, I doubled back the way I came. It got real hot and I gladly took a little break to dunk my head in the river. When all was said and done, I clocked in 9.5 miles//600 ft elevation gain in about 3 and a half hours. It’s a new favorite and I highly recommend this hike!
my happy place- in the water in the woods!!
where: thoreau falls//lincoln, NH
when: june, and it was very hot. you can refill water at the hut which would add .4 miles round trip
how: via zealand trail + ethan pond trail (AT)
