I woke up refreshed from my river dip in Chikatsuyu, repacked by bag, and walked to the bus stop. The Kumano Kodo pilgrimage is different from long trails back home, as there isn’t one route. There’s a web of paths, and it’s common to to skip sections because of difficulty, time, or whimsy.

I liked this non-hardo energy on the Kumano Kodo. It was the antithesis of the usual American “all or nothing!!!!” vibe. I also didn’t have time to hike across the entire peninsula, so I bounced around using the local bus.

*Adorable vending machines:* *they’re not just for Kyoto*

I took the hiker-filled bus a few miles outside of Chikatsuyu, then trudged up a trail reroute forced by a recent landslide. The trail was steep, dense, and steamy.

I stopped for lunch at a conveniently placed picnic area, then came upon Brydie, my Australian trail pal, phone in the air, attempting to buy Taylor Swift tickets. I, too, had spent many hours on Ticketmaster trying to get Eras tour tix. It truly was a global struggle.

*I am still manifesting Eras tour tickets in 2024.*

Day 3 was my longest of stretch of hiking, clocking in about 12 miles. It was hot, it was rocky, it was humid, but I was rewarded with two incredible stops: Kumano Hongū Taisha, my first Grand Shrine of the pilgrimage, and Oyunohara Gate.

*Oyunohara Gate in the distance- it was huge!*

It was another 3 miles to my home for the night, Yunomine Onsen, but the guidebook said it was a viewless and brutal hike, so I ate matcha ice cream and took the bus instead. A hawk offered free entertainment as he stole not one but two ice creams from unsuspecting tourists!

I was enamored by Yunomine Onsen the moment I arrived. A small village tucked into the mountains, Yunomine’s steep streets clustered around a hot spring river. Pipes snaked around town pumping the natural hot water to minshukus.

There were eggs for sale that you could cook at a designated egg hardboiling spot in the river. So cute!!

*The river itself had beautiful colors from mineral deposits*

Smitten, I walked up the hill to my hostel, J-Hopppers Kumano Yunomine. 30 bucks for the night got me my own tatami mat room and access to a private hot spring onsen that is making me emotional just looking at it… SO RELAXING, SO LOVELY, a little stinky.

At this point, I knew 80% of the hikers at the guesthouse, and switched around my hiking plans to stick with the crew. Instead of skipping ahead via bus to the final section ending at Kumano Nachi Taisha, I pivoted and spent the day hiking ten miles from Yunomine.

I ended my Kumano Kodo adventure at a bridge in Koguchi. I had a nice sit by the river and reflected on my journey. The trail was beautiful, and the homestays incredible, but my favorite part was the hiker community on the trek. Many hikers were alums of the Camino de Santiago in Spain, which I guess will have to go on the bucket list!

With my last minute reroute, I struggled to find my way to Kii-Katsuura…. I had a minor bus mishap and did a surprise transfer in what can only be described as “the middle of nowhere.” Some of rural Japan has this 1960s industrial vibe which gets spooky when you’re pretty lost and are only 20% sure your bus is coming. But, come it did, and I maintain my 100% success rate of getting where I need to go… eventually!

In Kii-Katsuura I spent the night at Oyado Hana Guesthouse, which was perfectly serviceable. Back in Yunomine Dreamworld Onsen, I had made plans to catch up with my new pal Dani at the coast. We shared a delicious meal.

Wrapped up the night with some 7/11 Sapporos and a soak in a free hot spring foot bath. Life was good.

where:
kumano kodo, japan; nakahechi route chikatsuyu->yunomine onsen->koguchi [stayed kii-katsuura at the end]
when: june; very hot and humid do not rec
how: book with kumano travel to make your life easier… request J-Hoppers Yunomine!

kumano kodo: chikatsuyu to koguchi

shingū

kumano kodo: kii-tanabe to chikatsuyu